Imparting stretch to fabrics

ABSTRACT

A method of treating a woven fabric, this method including applying simultaneous and progressive heat and pressure to the fabric in such a manner that the yarn strands substantially across the width of the fabric are forced closer together thus imparting generally semi-permanent ease or stretch into the fabric, which is characterized and the method also includes affixing to the fabrics treated a selected interlining or interlining combination having inherent stretch whereby the semi-permanent ease or stretch imparted to the fabric is made substantially permanent is provided. Also provided is a fabric treatment apparatus having a heat applicator and pressure to a woven fabric and a transporter for affecting relative movement between the heat and pressure applicator and a fabric whereby passage of the fabric through the apparatus results in the yarn strands substantially across the width of the fabric being forced closer together thus imparting semi-permanent ease or stretch into the fabric, characterized and that the apparatus also includes means for affixing to the treated fabric an interlining and/or interlining combination having inherent stretch whereby the semi-permanent ease or stretch imparted to the fabric is made substantially permanent.

The present invention relates to a process for treating fabric and to afabric construction system, particularly though not exclusively, forapplication in clothing manufacture, which enables a certain degree andtype of stretch to be imparted into, for example, a waistband, whichhitherto has not been achieved.

Conventionally, waistband interlining can be elasticated and the outerfabric of the waistband ruched or gathered, providing for a large degreeof stretch whilst compromising the tailored look and fit of the garmentto which such an elasticated waistband is attached; or comprises anon-stretch interlining which acts as a stiffener stabilzing the outerfabric, affording some degree of reinforcement and perhaps providingadded resilience.

The disadvantage of the latter system of construction is that there islittle give or ease in that area of the garment incorporating thewaistband, and the fit of the garment may become uncomfortable to thewearer, for example after meals when the waist expands; in prolongedwear the top of the waistband can be forced to give way and effectivelyroll over rendering the look of the garment unsightly. In addition awearer falling mid way between sizing of off the peg waistbandedgarments selects a garment which is either too tight or too loose innormal wear.

Relatively recently waistbands incorporating a combination ofinterlinings, linings and outer fabrics, although not necessarily allthree components, which have inherent give or ease and provide a degreeof stretch have been produced and sold in trousers and skirts.Waistbands incorporating stretch fabrics for example those containingLycra or Elastane, and/or those referred to as weft stretch, in somecases achieve a satisfactory level of comfort.

The present invention is therefore concerned primarily with consistentlyachieving ease and comfort using conventional non-stretch outer fabrics,for example those where the inherent characteristic in the length orwidth of the material does not have a sufficient degree of ease orstretch to enable a stretch waistband to be produced with conventionalmethods. Some examples of such fabrics include woven or knittedcombinations of polyester/wool, polyester/viscose, cotton etc.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,051,215 discloses a method of applying heat and pressureto a woven fabric to impart elasticity in its warp direction, whichincludes the use of a cellulose reactive resin solution. German PatentSpecification No. 2444923 discloses affixing an interlining to a fabric,in particular stitching a stiffening strip to a wider facing strip.

According to a first aspect of the present invention there i s provideda method of treating a woven fabric, the method including applying heatand pressure to the fabric in such a manner that the yarn strandssubstantially across the width of the fabric are forced closer togetherthus imparting generally semi-permanent or permanent ease or stretchinto the fabric.

It is intended that the fabric so treated would be an outer fabric, butthe process can also be applied to lining or interlining fabrics.

The fabric treated may be in full width form, but typically the fabric(e.g. an outer fabric) is cut into strips either down the length of thepiece (i.e. in the warp direction--where continuous strips may be used)or at right angles across the piece (i.e. in the weft direction). Thisprovides the classic tailored look in the finished waistband. If it isdesired to achieve a higher degree of stretch the fabric may be cut at apredetermined angler to the warp or weft direction which will createadditional ease in the strip dependent on the angle of bias selected,but will compromise the traditional look and would be unacceptable infabrics with a check pattern for example.

Naturally, if the strips are cut at right angles across the piece (i.ein the weft direction), the reference made herein to the strandssubstantially across the width of the fabric should be interpreted asmeaning the strands substantially across the width of the strip.

The strips may be discrete strips or may be continuous strips or reelsof fabric, the latter option permitting higher process efficiency to beachieved although this is not always practical from a design viewpointor necessarily cost effective in cloth utilization terms.

Typically the outer fabric strip, having had imparted thereto generallysemi-permanent or permanent ease or stretch in accordance with themethod of the present invention, has affixed thereto, for example byfusing with adhesive, a selected interlining and/or interliningcombination which has the inherent stretch required. Interliningselections could include elastic types where the degree of stretch isknown as well as the recovery performance during prolonged wear.

The interlining/s may be woven, woven biased; knitted; non-woven; webadhesives or any other suitable material which, when fused, willmaintain the stretch and recovery properties imparted to the outerfabric during the treatment of the present invention. In some cases thetreatment stage is sufficient in itself to enable stretch to be impartedand retained without the need for interlining attachment in theconstruction.

Where an interlining is affixed to the treated outer fabric, the fusedstrip may optionally be further processed, for example it may be fedthrough an overlock machine to eventually provide for a curtain finishor be sewn to a pre-formed stretch/bias lining or lining composite.

A lining composite may be manufactured according to the presentinvention by subjecting a non-stretch lining fabric, for example wovenpolyester/cotton to the heat and pressure treatment specifed as being inaccordance with the first aspect of the invention, whereby stretch isimparted to the lining fabric. A suitable interlining fabric is fused tothe pretreated lining fabric, the interlining fabric being such that,when fused, it will maintain the stretch and recovery properties of thelining fabric imparted by the treatment of the present invention. Thisprovides a lining composite which has the desired stretchcharacteristic--this process has the advantage of avoiding bias sewingcosts involved in conventional lining composite production and enables awider range of fabrics to be utilized in the lining of trousers orskirts. Typically the lining fabric would be in the form of a continuousreel, to provide a continuous lining composite.

The method of the present invention may conveniently be carried out bymachine, and according to the second aspect of the present inventionthere is provided fabric treatment apparatus comprising means forapplying heat and pressure to a woven fabric and transport means foreffecting relative movement between said heat and pressure applicationmeans and said fabric whereby passage of the fabric through theapparatus results in the yarn strands substantially across the width ofthe fabric being forced closer together thus imparting semi-permanent orpermanent ease or stretch into the fabric.

The apparatus preferably includes means for handling continuous reels offabric (if used). In the case of continuous reels an operator would berequired to load the reels, whereas with individual strips an operatoris required to locate each individual strip in a similar type operationto the placement of strips in a conventional waistband fusing operation.

Typically, the apparatus comprises a rubberized conveyor belt in closeproximity to a heated steel roller, the strip passing along the belt andbeing nipped under the roller where both pressure and heat is appliedprogressively to the whole of the length of the strip or reel as thefabric progresses through the apparatus.

Preferably, the settings for the temperature and pressure of the steelroller, and the speed of the rubberized conveyor belt are pre-selectedfor one particular run or series of runs, but some or all of thesesettings can be variable dependant upon the degree of stretch requiredand the nature or composition of the material being processed. Theapparatus preferably includes means for optional steaming, water mist orsimilar damping of the fabric prior to the nip to aid the process.During the process the yarn strands disposed at right angles to thedirection of the rubber conveyor or at least substantially across thewidth of the strip are forced closer together. The extent to which theclosing up occurs for example may be dependant upon machine settings,hygral conditions, inherent thermal yarn shrinkage, the set of thefabric, etc.

On exiting from this apparatus the fabric strip has been treated in sucha way as to impart generally semi-permanent or ease or stretch into thefabric.

Where the apparatus is used to treat strips of outer fabric or liningfabric, the apparatus preferably encompasses means for fusinginterlining/s to the treated fabric. This may be either in line with themain apparatus or integral therewith, or alternatively the treated stripmay be fused with interlining/s by passage through a conventionalwaistband fusing system.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided awoven fabric having ease or stretch imparted thereto by the method ofthe first aspect of the present invention.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provideda waistband incorporating outer fabric and/or lining fabric and/orinterlining fabric treated in accordance with the first aspect of thepresent invention.

Whilst the fabric or fabric composite produced in accordance with thepresent invention having stretch potential is primarily intended to beincorporated in a waistband around the waists of garments such astrousers or skirts, the product could also be utilized for any otherpart of a garment where its benefits would be advantageous, for exampleto provide ease around cuffs, pocket mouths, trouser bottoms, sleeveheads etc. It could also have wider applications to textile articlesother than garments, where stiffening or reinforcing with a certaindegree of stretch is required.

Many other applications are also envisaged, for example tapes producedfor seam sealing in, for example, the manufacture of waterproofoutergarments. Conventionally, tapes for this purpose have to be cut onthe bias in order to have sufficient stretch, whereas using a tape madefrom fabric treated according to the present invention has stretch orease built in and therefore removes the need for biasing.

Embodiments of the present invention will now be described, by way ofexample only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 illustrates the preparation of outer fabric strips, FIG. 1Aillustrates an alternative preparation of the outer fabric strips.

FIG. 2 is a schematic drawing of the machine process,

FIG. 3 illustrates strands drawing closer together,

FIG. 4 illustrates interlining/s being fused to the strips,

FIGS. 5 & 6 illustrate respectively the construction of a linedwaistband and its attachment to a garment,

FIGS. 7 & 8 illustrate respectively the construction of a clothwaistband and its attachment to a garment, and

FIG. 9 illustrates the bottom of the outer fabric composite beingoverlooked to eventually provide a curtain finish.

Referring to FIG. 1 an outer fabric 10 is cut into strips 12, 14 eitheracross the fabric (12) or down the length of the fabric (14).Alternatively, in FIG. 1A, a continuous strip or reel 16 is cut down thelength of the fabric, from the roll 18. The fabric may alternatively betreated in the full width form.

As can be seen in FIG. 2, the apparatus according to the inventioncomprises a rubberized conveyor belt 20 driven by conveyor rollers 22,24, and a heated roller 26 which is held against the belt 20 in closedproximity to roller 24, so as to apply heat and pressure to a fabricstrip 12 passing through the nip formed between rollers 26 and 24. Thestrips are placed onto the conveyor by the operator--the fabric stripdirection being at right angles to the heated roller. The strip isprogressed through the nip of the roller and rubberized conveyor.

The result of this treatment is to force the strands which passsubstantially across the width of the strip to draw closer together, asshown in FIG. 3 (FIG. 3(i) is before treatment, FIG. 3(ii) is aftertreatment).

As shown in FIG. 4, fusible interlining 28 is introduced and fused tothe treated outer fabric strips 12--this operation can be performedin-line with the apparatus shown in FIG. 2, using a hot air applicator34 which directs hot air into the nip between two rollers 32, 30. Theresult is a strip 12A which comprises a treated outer fabric strip 12fused with interlining 28. One particularly suitable fusible interliningis reference number 010 LC from Lainiere de Picardie. Alternatively, aconventional waistband fusing system can be utilized to carry out thisstep.

Referring to FIG. 5, a lined waistband may be created when the outerfabric fused composite 36 at least part of which has been treatedaccording to the present invention and comprising an outer fabric 36A, afusible carrier 36B and a stiffener 36C is sewn along sewing line 40 toa lining or lining composite 42 comprising a lining fabric 42A and afusible interlining 42B (the lining is generally supplied in acontinuous reel form to the clothing manufacturer). The outer fabricfused composite 36 may then be folded along the edge of the stiffener36C or along slots provided in the carrier thereby setting the lining orlining composite back from the edge of the made up waistband, asillustrated in FIG. 6. The assembly is then stitched together alongsewing lines 44, 46.

Referring to FIGS. 7 & 8, a cloth waistband may be created by foldingthe outer fabric fused composite 36, at least one of the components ofwhich has been treated in accordance with the present invention, inhalf, either along the edge of the stiffener (if one has been used) orby folding along the slots in the fusible interlining (if provided); theunfinished edges are folded under and attached to the outer and innersides of the garment as shown in FIG. 8, being secured along sewinglines 48, 50.

Optionally, the outer fabric fused composite 36 can be overlooked alongone edge 52 by an overlock sewing machine as shown in FIG. 9, to providea curtain finish to the cloth waistband 54.

I claim:
 1. A method of treating a woven fabric, containing yard strandsso as to impart permanent stretch without ruching, the method includingapplying simultaneous and progressive heat and pressure to the fabric insuch a manner that the yarn strands substantially across the width ofthe fabric are forced closer together thus imparting generallysemi-permanent ease or stretch into the fabric, characterized in thatthe method also includes affixing to the fabric so treated a selectedinterlining and/or interlining combination having inherent stretchwhereby the semi-permanent ease or stretch imparted to the fabric ismade substantially permanent.
 2. A method according to claim 1 furtherincluding cutting the fabric to be treated into strips either down thelength of the fabric or at right angles across the piece.
 3. A methodaccording to claim 2 wherein the strips are either discrete strips orcontinuous strips or reels of fabric.
 4. A method according to claim 1wherein the interlining is selected from elastic types of interliningthereby maintaining the stretch in the interlining.
 5. A methodaccording to claim 1, further including processing the treated fabric byfeeding the treated fabric through an overlock machine.
 6. A methodaccording to claim 1 further including showing the treated fabric to apre-formed stretch/bias lining or lining composite.
 7. A methodaccording to claim 6 further including the by subjecting a non-stretchlining fabric of the lining composite to the heat and pressure treatmentaccording to claim 1 whereby stretch is imparted to the lining fabric,and then fusing this to a suitable interlining fabric, which, whenfused, will maintain the stretch and recovery properties of the liningfabric imparted during the treatment according to claim 1, thusproviding a lining composite which has the desired stretchcharacteristic.
 8. Fabric treatment apparatus comprising means forapplying heat and pressure to a woven fabric and transport means foreffecting relative movement between said heat and pressure applicationmeans and said fabric whereby passage of the fabric through theapparatus results in the yarn strands substantially across the width ofthe fabric being forced closer together thus imparting semi-permanentease or stretch into the fabric, characterised in that the apparatusalso includes means for affixing to the treated fabric an interliningand/or interlining combination having inherent stretch whereby thesemi-permanent ease or stretch imparted to the fabric is madesubstantially permanent.
 9. Apparatus according to claim 8 wherein theapparatus is adapted to handle individual strips of fabric. 10.Apparatus according to claim 8 wherein the apparatus includes means forhandling continuous reels of fabric.
 11. Apparatus according to any ofclaims wherein the apparatus comprises a rubberized conveyor belt inclose proximity to a heated stedel roller, the fabric passing along thebelt and being nipped under the roller where both pressure and heat isapplied progressively to the whole of the length of the strip or reel asthe fabric progresses through the apparatus.
 12. Apparatus according toclaim 11 wherein a settings for the temperature and pressure of thesteel roller, and the speed of the rubberized conveyor belt ispre-selected for one particular run or series of runs, but some or allof these settings can be variable dependent upon the degree of "stretch"required and the nature or composition of the fabric being processed.13. Apparatus according to claim 8 to wherein the apparatus includesmeans for optional steaming, water mist or other damping of the fabricprior to the nip to aid the treatment of the fabric.
 14. A wovenfabric/interlining composite having ease or stretch imparted thereto bythe method of claim
 1. 15. A waistband incorporating afabric/interlining composite treated in accordance with the method ofclaim 1.